One of the best parts of working in wine is the opportunity to learn directly from the people behind the bottles.

Last week we welcomed Nikolaus (Niki) Moser of Vitikultur Moser to The Spärrows in Manchester for a fantastic lunch with customers. We started with an informal tasting before hearing about Niki’s approach to winemaking, his family’s history and why he has championed organic and biodynamic viticulture for almost two whole decades! 

Founded by the Moser family and now led by Niki, the estate spans Kremstal and Neusiedlersee in Austria. Estate vineyards have been biodynamic since 2006 and organic since 2007, with a real focus on hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and allowing each wine to express its vineyard with as little intervention as possible.

The menu at Spärrows couldn’t have been better suited to the wines. From burrata, speck, and fermented cucumber to handmade Käsespätzle, pelmeni, pierogi, and Silesian smoked sausage, every course showcased just how versatile Austrian wines can be with food.

A few of my highlights from the tasting:

Vitikultur Moser Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2021 – my wine of the day, and it was my first glass! Bone dry and beautifully precise, with crisp citrus, green apple, delicate brioche and a chalky mineral finish. A fantastic example of just how exciting Austrian sparkling wine can be.

Fundamental Grüner Veltliner 2023 – fresh and vibrant with white pepper, green citrus and the variety’s signature lift. Brilliant alongside the richer dishes.

Grapes & Herbs NV – a really unique and thought-provoking non-alcoholic wine and new to Boutinot, infused with carefully selected herbs that reflect the estate’s biodynamic philosophy while remaining balanced and refreshing.

Zweigelt Reserve – elegant rather than heavy, with bright cherry, blackberry and subtle spice, fine tannins and plenty of freshness, making it a great match for the smoked sausage and dumplings. Also, the perfect red wine for a heatwave!

A huge thank you to Niki for sharing his knowledge, stories and passion, and to the team at Spärrows for the incredible food and hospitality. Days like these are a brilliant reminder that wine is about so much more than what’s in the glass, and that it is actually about the people, the vineyard, and the conversations it creates.

Written by Bella Lewis